We ate a delicious breakfast at The Ostrich before taking the 81 bus to the car rental agency, where we rented the car that would carry us the rest of the week. We left Heathrow due south and passed near Runnymede. I had noticed this while planning the trip, and had the address already in our itinerary.
We were serendipitously in the vicinity of the site of the signing of the Magna Carta at a time when one of the governments it inspired is rapidly rejecting it. It felt painful, but important, for us to honor and acknowledge possibly the most important governing document in the history of modern civilization at a time when our own own US Supreme Court’s decision dated July 1, 2024 freed presidents to use their official powers to engage in criminal acts substantially free of accountability.
“As foul as hell is; it is defiled by the presence of King John.” ~Matthew Paris, 1230
King John (1166-1216) was an unusually cruel and corrupt king. He was also a coward, and lost land during his reign. The king increased taxes dramatically on his barons to make up for what he had lost. The barons had enough, and seized his treasury, forcing him finally under their control. A neutral site was selected in 1215 at Runnymede, between the king’s castle at Windsor, and the baron’s stronghold. The charter protected rights of the church, protected the barons, committed to swift and impartial justice, and put limits on remittances to the king. The barons forced King John to seal the charter which said, among other things, that no one – not even a king (not even an arrogant orange dictator wannabe) – no one is above the law.
The American Bill of Rights and Constitution were built upon the principles of the Magna Carta, and the first meeting of the American Bar Association in 1957 was at Runnymede.
A sign along the way alerted us that if we stepped off the main path we would be on US soil, gifted by Queen Elizabeth II after the Kennedy assassination. Neither of us had any knowledge of this place and felt compelled to honor it by climbing to the monument to JFK. As you can see in the photos, it is an absolutely beautiful place and serene monument to a good man.
At the bottom of the hill, we continued along the long path once more, as shown in the photo at the top. We climbed the hill a second time to the monument to the Magna Carta, erected by the American Bar Association. This surprised me, as it is a world-impacting document and physically in the UK, so I wasn’t expecting my own country to have had such a firm hand in acknowledging its importance. But then, it felt good to know that at least at some point in history, the US government valued the Rule of Law. (To be absolutely clear, the US government is currently ignoring hundreds of years of precedent and rejects due process for anyone with brown skin or who doesn’t love Trump, even in cases when courts have ordered it.)
At the site, there are additional references to countries who honor the Magna Carta, to include India and South Africa.
Off we went to the next point of interest, Odiham Castle, called John’s Castle in the region. The infamous King John, mentioned above, had this castle built for himself once he became King. Signs at the site say he rode to Runnymede from here, but if so, that would mean he would not have stopped at The Ostrich, since it would not be on his way. In any case, this was a place he once spent time in.
Though there was not much left of the castle to see, I liked visiting a castle that had almost no people around, on a gorgeous summery day. We next walked on the path along the canal, because I was told by Atlas Obscura that we would see Britain’s largest bat colony. Naturally, I was distracted along the way.
The tunnel has an interesting history. It was originally built in 1792 to assist with commerce, and allow barges to pass under the hill instead of around. A partial collapse in 1932 stopped barge passage, and since commercial trade needs had changed, no effort was made to repair the tunnel. Local people could pass through on canoes for some decades after, but today it is completely closed. Since then, it has become a haven for migrating bats. It hosts the second largest population of hibernating Natterer’s bats in all of the UK during the winter months. As Margaret and I sweated in the sunshine, we realized there would be no bat sightings this day.
Our next point of interest HAD to be a toilet for me. Margaret had learned by only Day 2, that finding facilities is Crystal’s persistent mission. GPS said a place called The Mill House was nearby, and we agreed to pretend to want a drink so that I could use the toilet. The place was gorgeous, and packed, and we spontaneously decided to have lunch there.
I left Margaret to find us a seat, and ran for the facilities. I was stopped in my tracks by gushing water behind glass panels.
We realized the time and did not stay for lunch after all. Derrick and Jackie were waiting on us, and we still had some miles to travel, and had yet to check into our Airbnb for the night. After the absolutely scrumptious appetiser of baked brie, we hit the road once more, with our now-familiar routine of me, lazer focused, both hands on the wheel, eyes constantly glued to the road or the screen showing me what to do next, Margaret at the ready: helping me keep aware of peripheral information, like “One way!” “Big truck!” “Red light!” As in Ireland, I found that driving is relatively easy on the wrong side, but those damned roundabouts are the worst.
We found our place in Lymington, in New Forest on the southern coast, with no trouble at all. Our host was out in the back garden with her family enjoying the gorgeous weather, and heard our car pull in. She walked out to greet us and showed us our lovely private space and handed over the key. We dropped our bags, told her thank you, and took off for Derrick’s home, only 5 minutes away.
I have been following Derrick’s blog for over ten years. And following Derrick means I know much about his wife Jackie, and so I was dying to meet her too. Bless her heart, Jackie was at a disadvantage, spending her time usually in the garden and not getting to know bloggers. I had to tour the famous garden at their home in Downton, showcased almost daily on his blog called Ramblings.
Gifts were exchanged (photos in the next post) We all climbed into our rental car and I drove (HOW did that happen?) us all to dinner at an Indian place called Rokali’s.
Conscious Engagement 
Wonderful Crystal. This has been a delight to wander about with you 👍😀
I’m glad you were able to make it on the journey!
enjoyed seeing the steps and Kennedy memorial
I’m glad you liked that memorial; we did too. There are 50 steps, and 60,000 paving stones, each number chosen deliberately. The entire design of the place was to make visitors take in the scenery and then to reflect, at the top. I was too little to know the emotion of Kennedy’s time, and I am a bit in awe that another country was so moved by a US President.
🙂🙂
You did us so proud, Crystal. And we so enjoyed your and Margaret’s company. Such lovely photographs of us all in the garden. We may not have pointed out the Jackdaws resident in our chimney. Your piece on the Magna Carta was really timely because yesterday I had got to that story in my current reading of ‘Early Medieval England’ and the BBC broadcast the news that the Harvard Library has discovered that they have an original of the 1230 version which is worth considerably more than the $27 they paid for what they thought was a copy some years ago.
Oh Derrick, THANK YOU for reminding me of that news story. I was going to mention it also, and then forgot to. What an exciting bit of news that corresponds with the timing of my blog post. Now the US has a total of two of the original copies, and I heard on that same BBC broadcast that Harvard plans to put in on display later this year. This is important news when our country can use a reminder. Many people will be googling “Magna Carta.”
Yes, the photos of us all in the garden brought back warm memories of the day, and I do not recall seeing Jackdaws at your place, but once I saw a robin, that is all I needed to see. 🙂
I hadn’t thought to point out the jackdaws which nest in our disused chimney every year
Hi Derrick. So happy Jackie and you got to meet Crystal (and Margaret). I din’t know you were so “close to the Magna Carta”. I also just read about Harvard finding that treasure in its archives… (That’s probably why 🎃 is attacking Harvard)
Blessings to all.
Thanks very much, Brian
I am glad you both mentioned this news story because I, too, was listening in amazement as I composed this blog post, then completely forgot to mention it. I am wondering if I’ll be able to pull off a viewing of it when they show it to the public. If it’s at Harvard, then I’ll for sure add that stop to a visit to all my Boston friends.
I understand it’s at Harvard. Maybe they can sell it for beaucoup million bucks and send the change to 🎃
Or better, use the money to fight his stupid minions who are taking away the rights of the University. grrrr
Taking away everybody’s rights… Now Habeas corpus is a “Presidential constitutional right”? Come on!
What a gorgeous space Runnymede is, Crystal. Not to mention it’s enormous significance. I never knew.
Well done to you for tackling driving on the ‘wrong’ side of the road with such determination. In South Africa we drive like the British on the other side of the road, so when moving to the UAE, it took me a long time to build up the courage to drive, especially as Al Ain had enormous roundabouts with more lanes than a normal human can cope with. Now, though, I zip through roundabouts like a pro, and get nervous when going back to South Africa to drive what I now consider the ‘wrong side’ of the road. 😅 In the UAE we at least had an automatic car, which made it easier to get used to driving on the opposite side of the road, but I felt flustered and scared all over again when moving to Portugal, as here we bought a manual car, and I thought that I would never be able to change gears with the ‘wrong’ hand! I always marvel how quickly one adapts to new situations, though. I’m sure you felt like a pro, even just after a week. 😇
I marvel at the ease of changing sides, as you do. It helps, somehow, that all the controls inside the car are flipped to a mirror’s reflection of the cars I know. Marry the design of the car with the changed road rules, and my brain just eased right into it. The roundabouts are stressful though, and the ones in Al Ain sound absolutely frightening. I lived and drove in Boston for a while, which helped me very much with my driving, in that to succeed there, you must drive very fast in very narrow lanes with zero hesitation. My guess is Al Ain was a good learning time for your driving, ha ha.
I thought of you when I saw the references to South Africa. I’m glad you were able to see this post. For all the mistakes governments around the world make, they do often have an honorable model in mind when they are set up. (same with religions I guess)
What a wonderful adventure and meeting… bravo.
Thank you for reaching back through my recent blog posts, Brian! Yes, it was a great trip: my first ever to England and the UK. Kellen and I have been to Ireland, and I went to France in 2002, but that’s it for this region of the world. So I was due a visit. We skipped London entirely though – not enough time – so I hope to come back with Pedro next time and see London, and also Oxford (he had a scholarship to attend Oxford but didn’t take it, and I wonder if he ever thinks about the “what ifs.”).
You seem to ahve done very well for a first time. London is nice. I went there very often in the 80’s since I was working for the Brits… But I must confess I don’t know anything outside London. Silly isn’t it?
Maybe not silly, since I think London is packed with adventure. 🙂
I mean “odd”. Half my family probably lives in the UK now… And there are so many things to see outside London… Well, in another life maybe…