Our spot in Guanajuato

Our view of the city of Guanajuato from our Airbnb on the hill.

When we met, I noticed pretty early on that Pedro loves colour. He likes bold, bright, primary colours and had splashes of colour throughout his house, his wardrobe, his art collection, even his dishware. When I saw photos of Guanajuato for the first time, I realized where he got his love of colours.

September 1st we took a short domestic flight to the airport in Leon. I was finally visiting Pedro’s hometown of Guanajuato, capital city of Guanajuato State in Mexico. Geographically, it is located in the south-center of the country, almost exactly equidistant from both coasts, and north of Mexico City. He lived here until he graduated from the University of Guanajuato with a degree in chemical engineering. Then he moved to Oregon and has been here ever since.

A towering spire from the Mercado Hidalgo.

Unlike the chaos of arriving in Cancun a week earlier, in Leon we were met by a group of Rivera family members. I was tired and somewhat overwhelmed by the idea of meeting them all, so I barely remember what happened at the airport. We were soon outside and deciding who would go in which vehicles, and there was a long ride back to Guanajuato. They drove us directly to our Airbnb, and I was grateful for that. I think we all were. It had been a long day after meeting Edith, then the tour of the monkey sanctuary, then a flight.

As you can see in the photos, the city spills across steep hillsides and downtown is in the valley. Most streets in Guanajuato are too narrow for cars and many “streets” are simply stairs, like a European city. Our family drove us to the top of the hill above our room, so we could take the stairs down to our place instead of up. It was dark, and we were hauling bags on narrow stairs, and somehow we found it with ease. (But then Pedro and I have experience with finding Airbnbs – the craziest one was tucked away off a narrow street in Venice)

We arrived at night, and the scene was marvelous.

Guanajuato spread out below us as we hauled our bags.
It is fascinating that the city is so dense on such a steep hillside.

La familia helped us carry bags and they all came in to see our place. We saw right away that there was no bottled water, so Pedro and his older brother Jose (they are all older; Pedro is the baby of eight siblings) climbed the hill again to go find someone selling water at night. Lola stayed with me and Andre and we stared at each other uncomfortably for a while, not knowing each other’s languages. I remembered my phone translator and that helped! Then Andre found an app which simply “listens” to you speak, and then translates it on the screen for the other person. Wow, so cool. In that way, Lola and I were able to talk a little.

Then the men came back with a big jug of water and some bread for morning. We hugged all around and said our goodbyes with promises to see each other again soon.

Jose, Fanny (on the couch), Lola, and Pedro in our Airbnb. Jose said, “You chose this place for the view.” He was exactly right.

The photos at the top were taken from the balcony of the Airbnb we stayed in for the next five nights. The view was nothing short of magnificent.

View from the couch where Fanny was sitting in the photo above.
View from the dining area. You can see the balcony we stood on every day to survey the valley.
Darling kitchen with everything we needed to prepare our own meals.
View from the kitchen. The landlord told us the next day that the small tap on the right is filtered water, so we did not need to go buy water.

Since we were on the side of the hill, views only faced one direction, but it was enough. And since we are looking at the inside of the Airbnb, can I just say how lovely it is? All these bright tiles inside.

Bathroom mirror.
Sparkly glass in the front door.
A wider view from our living space.

But let’s get back to that view.

Here’s the panoramic view from the balcony, with all the key Guanajuato landmarks in front of us.

Pedro explained some of the story behind the colours. I searched and searched the interwebs and could not find any impetus for the first adoption of colourful tradition. At some point, however, it was supported by the government. Pedro recalls that when he was in his early teens, his father applied for assistance from the city to get new paint. If a property owner had a dull outside wall, and particularly if one of the walls was in full view, the city would provide paint for the building. Pedro thinks the point of this was beautification in general, but he’s not sure if it specifically was for tourism.

Guanajuato is now famous for its colours. If you saw the movie Coco, you’ll recall the brilliancy of the city of the Land of the Dead that Miguel visits with his dog Dante. The design of that place was inspired by Guanajuato’s colours.

A nice patch of green beside us.
Looking over the balcony.
Most mornings this cat sunned and bathed on the roof beside the yellow house.
We had the whole third floor. Here, Liam looks out from the front door.
The street in front of the house, with stairs leading down to the first floor beneath us.

Yes, in the photo above, I said “street.” That is an example of common streets on the hilliest parts of the city. This is how we left and came home each day. It was marvelous! The teenagers were not always in approval of having to climb stairs multiple times a day, heh heh.

Heading up the street to the top of the hill.
The street to our Airbnb.
We passed this shop every day. It was open for about an hour in the morning, and about two hours in the evening.
This is where one street comes out at the main road at the top of the hill.
El tinaco del Pipila is a cistern painted in white we used as a landmark on the main road.

Many stair-type streets dropped off the side from the cobbled road that was for cars. Luckily there was a distinctive ancient cistern very close to the point where our staircase reached the top. We used El tinaco until we learned to identify which set of stairs to follow.

My boys at the top. Behind them is the yellow and red Basílica colegiata de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato, one of the more famous landmarks of the city.
Me at the top.

I have about 150 photos off the balcony. Each morning when I woke, I would gape in astonishment. It’s just stunningly beautiful. I chose a few that I like for the series below.

Ok, ok, that’s all I will subject you to. Our days in Guanajuato were packed. I barely even know how to begin with all the photos. But I am having fun re-living our time there two months ago. Thank you for joining me. ❤

13 thoughts on “Our spot in Guanajuato

  1. Wowza! That view!!! And thank goodness for language apps. I have a 621-day streak of Spanish Duolingo, but I can’t seem to come up with the correct words in a conversation. But I will not give up. I know Pedro speaks Spanish, but do his boys? Or were they using the language apps too? :o)

    1. Good for you on that streak. Holy moly, the experts would assume you were more than fluent now! I took three terms of Spanish at Brandeis University in 2004-5, then three terms again at Lower Columbia College in Longview, WA 2020-2021. I’ve been subscribing to Pimsleur for two years and practice speaking whenever I’m in my car alone. And yet…. someone speaks to me in Spanish and I can’t understand a word of it. Or, when I want to say something, the words don’t come, even though I KNOW them. It’s really frustrating. So I totally get what you are saying.

      Pedro’s son Liam is pretty fluent, but too shy to speak it much, since he doesn’t really need to day to day. His son Andre has slightly more knowledge than me – so we are basically both worthless at conversing. ha ha. I think it’s impossible unless I were to live in a Spanish-speaking community. I told the Riveras that I’m going to come live with them for six months. I sort of want to do that. I’m afraid the language will never happen if I don’t.

    1. Running up and down stairs becomes less and less fun with our creaky knees. You probably ran up and down so many that your knees forced you to stop at last.

      I love the description of piles of Lego Bricks!

      1. That seems unusual. With my work with disability benefits at the Department of Veterans Affairs, joint problems almost always came on gradually until a person couldn’t bear it anymore. Your experience is indeed a strange one, and disappointing I’m sure.

  2. I love the colors of Mexico. In LA I had my kitchen and part of the dining room painted in that deep blue with an undertone of purple. Loved it. Your trip sounds wonderful.

  3. We’ve been to Guanajuato almost every year since 2015 or so and I’m still thrilled by the first view of the morning! The place we stay has a beautiful rooftop view of the sun slowly hitting different spots across the valley ☀️

    1. I’m glad you love it there. What a beautiful city that I had never even heard of until I met Pedro. Now I’ll be fortunate enough to be able to go back often to visit family. The place you stay at when you go sounds just perfect. Have you ever hiked the trails there through the mountains? That’s high on my to-do list next time we go.

  4. Beautiful blog Crystal. I like your description of Guanajuato and your feelings of knowing Guanajuato. I was born in León, nearby Guanajuato but I spent 5 years attending to the University of Guanajuato, also I spent two years styding at Southern Oregon University in Ashland, then I came back to Guanajuato and spent another lapse of four years working in Guanajuato, now I’ve been living in León for 38 years. That’s why I like this blog and some of the others you have written. The remain those times I spent in these places you mention. God bless you!

    1. Muchas gracias Humberto! ❤ Sadly, I did not get time to explore Leon (solo el aeropuerto), but I think all of Guanajuato State is beautiful. We went out through Dolores Hidalgo, Atotonilco, San Miguel de Allende, and I loved the mountains and forests and the darling small towns and churches. On a future visit, we will see your hometown of Leon, I am sure. You are so kind to read my blog and leave a message.

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