Beautiful Beacon Rock

Beacon Rock, as viewed from the Columbia River below.

There are a few places around here that I think everyone should see. Multnomah Falls, of course, is one of them. Across the river is Beacon Rock.

The rock was formed inside the core of a volcano when it filled with molten rock. In the years after, the outside of the volcano was worn away – likely from the mind-bendingly huge Missoula Floods 15,000 years ago. The 848-foot-tall (258 m) core of harder rock was left, and now we see the remarkable and eye-catching rock formed of basalt columns rising up from the Columbia River and visible for miles in both directions. Over the past 15,000 years, this section of the river was home to dozens of indigenous tribes, and more importantly than that, this location is close the former Celilo Falls – a massive gathering and trading place, where Natives fished the rapids. Every year, thousands of Native people came from miles away and spent time here and had their own name for the rock, which records say was che-che-op-tin by the Watlala, or Cascades Indians, part of the Chinookan peoples who lived then and now along the river. The first of the famous explorers came through in 1805, and Clark described the rock in his journal. Then a year later they came through, and Lewis named it Beacon Rock.

The rock is also a place that rock climbers like to test themselves on.
This guy was making a solid effort, and we left him to it.

It was a gorgeous sunny and warm Saturday and the trail was full of families. People of all ages and abilities, with their toddlers and babies and their dogs, all battled it out for a parking space and hit the one-mile trail. Pedro and I joined them. It was his first time to hike this particular trail.

It is good news when this door is unlocked.

We walked through a small bit of forest adjacent to the parking lot, where rock climbers were climbing. It’s a popular place for them. Then we climbed the beautiful trail to the first incline as it begins to scale the rock itself. Trail conditions here are often hazardous – at night, for example – and the door must be locked or determined hikers will test their luck on the narrow soaring trail. We found the door unlocked.

This Trail Built by Henry J. Biddle, assisted by Charles Johnson. Work began in 1915 and was completed in 1918.

The trail is in excellent condition and very sturdy and stable. It has 51 switchbacks, and that keeps it from becoming steep. The bridges are all supported on steel I-beams, and there are concrete-mounted hand railings the entire route. In my opinion, it is very safe and rather easy, if you are not afraid of heights. We saw multiple kiddos of ages 4 on up, happily hiking away with their families, and lots of dogs that did not have a problem with the bridges or narrow trails.

With all that said, though, at a quick glance the trail looks daunting and even frightening. But it is not.

Switchbacks in the trail climb the sheer rock face.
Standing below and looking up at more switchbacks.
Standing above and looking down.

Why would so many of us choose this undertaking? Well, of course for the unique trail that has no parallel around here. But also, for these views:

Fellow hikers gaze across the river below. The silvery sheen across the mountaintops is due to millions of dead, grey trees. 50,000 acres burned in the Eagle Creek wildfire in 2017.
Pedro took this shot of me looking out. I love the framing with the tree branches.
Pedro and I took turns leading the way up the switchbacks.
An information sign at the top of the rock.

We read the information sign talking about how the gorge was carved by the famous Missoula floods, as they carried rocks and icebergs between the two states we now call Oregon and Washington.  Ice dams in Montana burst periodically, give or take 15,000 years ago, and sent catastrophic, otherworldly floods all the way across Idaho and Washington and into the Pacific Ocean. Flood waters are believed to have submerged the top of Beacon Rock at a depth of 200 feet, for a total of 1000 feet deep. That’s a flood practically beyond comprehension.

The top of the hill contains mature trees that obscure some of the view. We rested a few minutes, then went back down a little bit to what we believe is the best view of the trail.

This is the spot we found that has the widest, most unobstructed view.
Another view in the same direction.

Back at the bottom, we were unsatisfied. Though I was wearing a knee brace due to what we think is bursitis that is plaguing my right knee, my legs felt strong and we both wanted more. Nearby is another trail, so we took it. The trail is much less spectacular, but it did take us to the water’s edge and gave us a great view of the rock from below.

From Beacon Rock, that bit of land just in front of us is part of the Beacon Rock State Park. A trail leads to the boat launch and dock, where you can see a couple of boats in this photo.
Here we are standing at the boat launch, looking back up at the rock.
From there, I captured a wonderful view of many of the switchbacks. You can see the incline from here – it’s quite manageable for those who have strong legs and steady feet.

The trail through the woods and marshes to the shore of the river was shady and pretty, and offered new types of views from those we had had on the rock.

The foundation of a long-abandoned building.
Views through the trees
A profusion of wild sweet peas.
This adorable rabbit, who held still for a very long time as I walked slowly forward, taking photos.

Surprisingly, we found the second trail much more difficult than the first. The slopes were steeper, and it was hotter at ground level with no refreshing breeze. My knee was aching by the time we finished. We had been hiking for hours and were ready for refreshment. That’s when we headed to the Soča Wine Shop & Bar that I wrote about in my last post.

Read this blog post from Dede Montgomery from 2017. She’s another Columbia Gorge fan.

15 thoughts on “Beautiful Beacon Rock

  1. It really DOES look daunting, and switchbacks are usually not my friend, but this is a wonderful mile with a really big payoff. Great photos! I found it hard to really capture the height of it when I went and these shots are great. Brava, my friend!

    1. Thank you so much Bonnie. I’m glad that you were able to make it up, even though switchbacks are not your friends. I always use my camera as my crutch, and when I’m tired, I stop and take photos. 🙂

  2. Thanks for linking to my blog! Love your story and photos. Happy to follow along. Make sure you read my blog Oregon’s Past in a Deck of Cards for some cool old images including of the Gorge.

    1. Yes, your legs are no longer sturdy and reliable as they once were. I agree that your best decision is to climb via blog! Thank you for the compliments again on my photography and prose.

  3. Looks like an awesome trail! It’s so great that it is well-taken care of. I’m not afraid of heights, but I have issues with sheer drop-offs, so I’ll appreciate that railing if I get the opportunity to visit. Thanks for the introduction to Beacon Rock!

    1. I can relate to your perspective! I have some concern with drop offs, and I also have some issues with heights. Multiple times I tested the railings for stability and they do not wiggle. The fact that the ground was 100% solid and the railings didn’t move a millimeter gave me confidence. It is worth the effort for those who can make it even part way up – in order to get those great vistas.

  4. Great photos Crystal, of both the hike and the two of you. Also enjoyed your writing! And the little rabbit is adorable!
    Here’s a coincidence: I’m planning to do a post on the Missoula Floods right after I wrap up South Dakota, which I will do on Monday. The following Monday will be another Egypt post and then the Missoula Floods the Monday after.

    1. Thanks for letting me know, Curt. The Missoula Floods are endlessly fascinating to me. Thanks for the compliments, too. That rabbit held still till we were practically able to touch it, then when it ran off, it ran along the trail, more and more alarmed that we simply followed along behind it. Finally, it got the good idea to leave the trail, and we were able to walk on past and give it some peace.

  5. That was a fun hike and my legs and feet don’t hurt too much. I’m a little woozy though from looking down. Thanks for taking me along and the educational tour to go with it. I am impressed with your hiking boots. Better than sandals. 🙂 The photos are phenomenal. I feel like I’m right there. The knee brace worried me for a bit. Glad you are protecting that knee though. I like learning something new every day. Thanks. Have a great 4th.

    1. I am happy to have been your guide on an easy hiking trip, Marlene. It’s always good when you get back home again, and your legs and feet still feel ok. ;o) Yes, I am a fan of wearing proper footwear because I too often get stuck wearing the wrong thing. When I get a chance to plan ahead, I try to choose well.

      My dumb knee is getting worse every day. I must have torn a ligament or something. All my bursa are filled with fluid and my knee is fat and swollen. My left knee is now also swollen because I’ve been putting all my weight on it to protect the right knee. (eye roll) But now that I am done packing up my house and hauling furniture, and painting, and scrubbing the moss off the roof, and hauling, chopping, weeding, watering, cleaning, and preparing all the stuff….whew….anyway, Pedro suggested, and I have agreed, to try staying off my legs as much as possible. I have decided to aim for three weeks of minimal leg work, but I will work my upper body to try to keep my cardio up when I can. We have some big trips coming up, but I am going to try to hold still when I can. One trip is to Washington, D.C., and I’m not sure how not to walk in D.C., but I will brainstorm.

      1. You know T S had a knee replacement just before he came to pick up my stuff from storage and bring it here. He’s only 55! Still playing tennis and pickle ball though. It was a long haul recovery. I like the idea of giving your legs a break. I notice if I walk too many days a week, my legs burn. So I’m trying to switch it up with yoga. Finally losing those winter pounds. You will need those legs for the next part of the move. Happy 4th to you.

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