Edoras, the capital of Rohan

The day was grey and cloudy and wet when we began our journey to Mt. Sunday. {Photo by Pedro Rivera}

On our very first night in Auckland meeting the tour group, the question was asked at our table: “Which site are you most eager to see?” My answer was Edoras. Of all the landscapes in the movies, the setting of the King’s Golden Hall on top of the hill in a wide, wild valley and surrounded on all sides by snowy peaks….ahhh, it simply makes my heart soar. In the story, the people of Rohan are horse people, so the movie has multiple shots of horses and their riders and the stables which are nicer than all the homes. Every bit of this staging is magnificent for me and I was aching to stand there and be in that setting.

A screen capture of the town of Edoras, capital of Rohan, from the movies.
Meduseld, the Golden Hall, built on the top of the hill.
Instead of vast landscapes, the clouds brought everything in close. {Photo by Pedro Rivera}

Morning was grey, cloudy, and raining steadily. As we drove toward the location, it rained and rained, the windshield wipers on the bus swiped in vain. I had to fight my growing dismay. My one and only day in probably my whole life to go to Edoras, and it was so stormy we could barely see the landscape. Tour guide Josh tried to make us feel better by repeatedly announcing that the weather is often better at Mt. Sunday than whatever it was in Christchurch in the morning.

Our travels that day from Christchurch in the morning, to Twizel in the evening.

Pedro and I were in the back of the bus when Josh announced that we could now see Edoras. I jumped up and took this shot through the windows.

This was our view of Mt. Sunday at a distance, as our bus approached it. If you enlarge the photo, you can see a small hill in the distance, in the center of the valley.

Josh was right, and the weather improved, but I never did get to see the mountains that I wanted to see. “I want to see mountains again, Gandalf, mountains!” said Bilbo. And I could relate to the sentiment.

This was the only view of snowy peaks that we got. Can you see it? {Photo by Pedro Rivera}
This was my only glimpse of snowy mountain peaks that day.

The good news is that the weather did improve considerably. The clouds did lift enough to the see the valley. We did feel a ray of sunshine here and there, and the setting was incredible. Edoras is absolutely excellent.

Mt. Sunday is the location used by Peter Jackson as Edoras, in the Lord of the Rings movies.

Mt. Sunday got its name because that was the day the ranchers and farmers of the region gathered. They had a weekly meeting here to share news.

We crossed a couple of streams to get there.
The valley was filled with water.

Josh told us stories about what things were like in the early days of Red Carpet Tours, how his wife’s grandfather would take groups here. On foot they would stand together with arms linked, and literally hold each other up as they forded the stream.

Tourists don’t get wet anymore. By the way, look at Pedro with his shirt and dwarf axe.
There was a sign on the bridge that only allowed one person on at a time, so it took a while.
The trail heading up the mountain somewhat follows the main road into the city that was seen in the movies.
Josh explains which movie scenes were shot from which angles. Here were the barrows of the ancient kings of Rohan.

As we climbed the mountain (and yes, there is a dirt track that goes right up the side of Mt. Sunday), Josh stopped us and pointed to different points on the horizon, then showed photos from the movies so that we could recognize the different spots from the movies.

Connor is standing where Aragorn, Legolas and Gimli, and Gandalf were shot when they were on their horses, as you see in the movie image.

The higher we climbed, the more we could see of the awe-inspiring landscape.

Looking across the valley due south.
Watch Pedro demonstrate his axe skills
Don’t mess with this guy.
Looking east, at the trail we climbed, and at our bus in the distance. {Photo by Pedro Rivera}

From the top of Edoras, you have a 360 degree view of the most magnificent valley. It truly is stupendous. Oh, how I wish, I wish that we could have seen the mountains. Even Josh was frustrated. He kept his enthusiasm very high for us, but he also kept muttering and clenching his fists in mock anger – If the clouds would just lift a LITTLE, he cried. It was so close. We lingered hours, just hoping against hope. But no, we never saw the tops of the mountains.

Looking northwest.

In the scene above, Josh pointed out where Helm’s Deep was shown in the movies. It’s at the base of the mountains to the left. Look for a small stand of tall trees, and Helm’s Deep is just to the right of it.

If you know it from the movies, you will recognise the place now.
I am pointing to it. {Photo by Pedro Rivera}

Of course, then it was time for reenactments!! The members of the group played several different scenes from the movies. Then we got out all the props and began posing. I didn’t like mine, but I loved Pedro’s poses.

Pedro with the flag of Rohan.
Panorama with south on the left and northwest on the right. {Photo by Pedro Rivera}
Sometimes you have to put down your axe. {Photo by Pedro Rivera}
But not for long.
Beautiful in every direction.

Finally Josh had to make the call to ask us to return to the bus. Two more tour busses had arrived, and a bunch of people were getting ready to take the trail up the hill. We reached the bottom, and the one-at-a-time bridge right about the time that they did, so it took a half an hour to ford the stream. But then we went over to the bus and eagerly devoured our takeaway lunches that we had all brought with us.

Then it was time to leave Edoras. It was hard to say goodbye. If I make it to New Zealand again, I would like to come here and try once more to see the mountains.

As if they were paid actors, a herd of horses began frolicking beside the road as we passed.
They kicked, and galloped, and circled and chased each other, to our delight.
It couldn’t have been a more perfect cap to the Edoras trip.

6 thoughts on “Edoras, the capital of Rohan

  1. Fun photos of Pedro swinging the Axe! 😳 I wouldn’t want to be in the way. Great photos whether you saw the snow covered mountains or not, Crystal. Beautiful country. It must have been great having a tour guide with so much knowledge. Peggy and I have learned it makes a tremendous difference. You will never look at the movie in the same way, that’s for sure. –Curt

    1. Josh’s story is pretty sweet. He was born a fan. I can’t remember how old he was when he first became aware of Tolkien’s stories and started to love them, but it was very young, like 5 years old. His arms are covered in deeply personal tattoos from everything Lord of the Rings, such as Dwarven themes and language. He has personal designs created by movie calligrapher Daniel Reeve tattooed on him. So anyway…he married INTO this family, which has run a Lord of the Rings tour for generations. He pretty much considers himself the luckiest fan in the world to have fallen in love with a woman who is part of this family.

      I really loved how Pedro’s eyes caught the Dwarf axe. We were usually in the background of all the props and reenactments stuff, but when we climbed off the bus that day, and Josh asked, “Who will carry the axe?” Pedro practically leaped forward to take it. 🙂

      1. Sounds like a great story with Josh, Crystal. Thanks for sharing. And a rather large smile crossed my face when I pictured Pedro jumping up to claim the Dwarf’s axe.

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