Mt. Victoria

The view from our Wellington hotel room the evening before.

The next morning we had the marvelous luxury of a 9 am start. Many mornings we had to pack all our luggage, show up at breakfast by 7:30, and load the bus by 8 am. Mornings like today, when we weren’t traveling, were so nice.

I remember, while watching the Appendices from the Lord of the Rings extended edition movies, Peter Jackson expressing his delight at finding a great filming location right near his home in Wellington. This spot is Mt. Victoria, and it was where our bus headed this morning. Julie said she has learned to hit this place first thing in the morning, to avoid the crowds of tourists.

View through the bus windows.

The trails on Mt. Victoria showed us exactly where to find the movie film locations. The beautiful (and free to visit) city park that is easily accessible in New Zealand’s capital city explains why it is visited by so many tourists. There are Lord of the Rings fans around the world, and many of them in New Zealand itself, and many of them want to do just what we were doing: visiting as many film locations as we could find.

When we came around a bend in the trail, we recognized the forest. It is beautiful and dramatic, just like we knew it from the films.

The slope and woods above were instantly recognisable as the hill the Hobbits tumbled down as they were escaping an angry Farmer Maggot after having stolen some of his vegetables. When the Hobbits land in a heap at the bottom of the hill, they spot mushrooms and hurry to collect some. The chapter in Tolkien’s book is called Shortcut to Mushrooms, so named because the Hobbits come face to face with Farmer Maggot, who is famous for growing prized mushrooms, and he freely gives some of them to the travelers. I suppose a frenzied escape is more interesting in a movie.

The actual spot where the actors rolled down the hill.

On the edge of the road is another famous movie scene. As the Hobbits are collecting their wits and brushing off their clothes from the tumble, and picking mushrooms, Frodo gets the sense of approaching danger. “Get off the road!” he yells to them, and all four Hobbits leap off the road and hide beneath the root of a tree.

This is the scene in the movie.
Julie called out for volunteers to reenact the scene.
We craned our necks to look around the group and see what was happening over there. {Photo by Pedro Rivera}

On this occasion, Pedro and I were at the back, and had not really even seen the famous “Get Off the Road” spot when it was already time for reenactments. We knew we would be here a long time as all the members of the tour group took their turns pretending to be in the scene. We wandered around a little and looked at the trail.

This is not a tree in the movie, but still an impressive tree.
The plaque on the bench contains a quote from the movie, spoken by Sam. “If I take one more step…it’ll be the furthest away from home I’ve ever been.”

Something I noticed with pleasure is that New Zealanders are proud of their place in the movie-making world, and that many are specifically proud of their connection to Tolkien’s Middle Earth. We would find evidence throughout the country, such as plaques, statues, figurines in cases, and all kinds of quiet honors like these park benches, adorned with movie quotes.

“Not all those who wander are lost,” a line from Gandalf.
This is a tattoo on the arm of our fellow traveler, Lina. It says, “Not all who wander are lost,” in Elvish.

On this occasion, Pedro was interested in participating in the reenactment because he wanted to try on some of the props. If I didn’t mention it earlier, Pedro’s affinities lean more toward the dark characters. He likes the orcs. His favourite character is one with a big role in Rings of Power, that of the elf Adar, Father of Orcs. The piece of kit that he wanted to get his hands on were the gauntlets worn by the Ringwraith. Soon I was over the edge of the hill, getting photos of him in action. In my opinion the scene was rendered ridiculous with the addition of the horse head. (I’m sorry, I’m sorry. I just think the whole reenactment thing is over-the-top silly. But we did try to play along and keep a good spirit about it.)

Pedro is in the black cape, the Hobbits quiver in fear, Hobbit Nadine tosses a piece of carrot to distract the wraith.
A different wraith and horse and Hobbits, but you can see the gauntlets better here.

The group finished reenacting the scene, then tromped over the ledge and down the hill for the next movie site, and Pedro and I got to take a look at the Get Off The Road site for the first time with no people in it.

This is what it looks like as you approach.
This is the spot itself: much different than in the movie, because in the movie there was a massive fake tree and fake tree roots that curled around the alcove where the Hobbits hid. {Photo by Pedro Rivera}

After another hour of reenacting the scene down at the big tree over the hill, people started to clear out of there and Pedro and I made our way down to take a look at the tree where Frodo and Sam had shared a pipe at the beginning of their journey.

Movie scene.
Julie, holding up a photo to show us how to recreate the scene.
Joe and Elise, playing Frodo and Sam.
Matteo and Fabian climbing trees while we watch people reenacting the scene.
And Pedro climbing a tree.
Finally no one was sitting in the tree.

At long last, everyone felt as though they had recreated the scenes to their hearts’ content and we were able to walk on. Since we were already at Mt. Victoria, the bus driver took us to the top, for a great 360 degree view of the city. Click the link below to see a video that I took.

https://youtube.com/shorts/A14NrVHMJ5I

This was the magnificent day and magnificent view we had from Mt. Victoria Lookout. You can see the runway for the Wellington airport, between two bodies of water.
Downtown Wellington, New Zealand. Our hotel is directly ahead on the shore near the boats in the marina you see, but hidden behind the green verge.
This sculpture reminds me of North American totem poles.

Then it was time for lunch, and we went on to the beautifully restored Roxy Theatre, before heading to Weta Workshop. But I’ll talk about that in my next post.

9 thoughts on “Mt. Victoria

  1. My first thought on the hiding spot was that it was bare because 10s of thousands of fans had traipsed over it, Crystal. Grin. So, Pedro likes the darker characters, eh. How about you? Are you a Smaug fan given your love of dragons? What I remember about Wellington from my first trip there in 1975, was that it was a lot less stuffy/formal than Auckland where I had to wear a tie and Joann (first wife) a dress if we were going out to dinner. That meant it was my kind of town.

    1. You may be partily right in any case, Curt. I just spotted an old photo from this touring company, that shows people in that spot, and there is still a root going across it. There is no sign of a root that size today, and I’m sure it has been worn away by the feet of loving fans.

      I’m not really a Smaug fan, as that dragon was made out to be distinctly bad in the books. But now that I think about it…Tolkien’s dragon was probably the first one I ever read about (I think I read The Hobbit at about 7 or 8 years old). And given the dearth of available fantasy writing in the 70s and early 80s, it is one of the few dragons I would have known about for some time. I read the Oz books, and Ursula le Guin, and Chronicles of Narnia that mentioned dragons. I found the Dragonlance series in 1987, and I didn’t read the Pern books till the 90s. So now I am wondering if Smaug is the seed for my original love of dragons in general.

      Yes, we liked Wellington a great deal, except that for three days it was the coldest weather of our whole trip. Kind of like PNW, ha ha!

      1. I was reading Joseph Campbell in the 70s (I am a bit older than you, grin). I remember him talking about the difference between the Eastern and Western dragons, with one being a force for the good and the other for evil. We can probably thank early Christins for the latter, given that they liked to view dragons as a manifestation of the devil. That’s why one of the easiest ways to become a saint was to go do battle with one. Real or not. As long as you had a good publicist, you were home free. Much better than the other route of being tortured.
        I started reading SciFi in the 70s before jumping into fantasy. I’m not sure when I started reading McCaffrey novels. She wrote the precursor to the Perm series in the late 60s. So it’s possible that I could have stumbled upon her at sometime in the 70s.

  2. Really amazing to hear about the reenactments and the deep dive into place. The thing that really struck me though was this one quote: “If I take one more step…it’ll be the furthest away from home I’ve ever been.” It’s haunting and gave me shivers.

    1. Oh, that point in the movie is special. It illustrates the trust between two friends and it just says so much…about their history, and what they just gave up to go on this journey, and how much Sam loves Frodo, and how much Frodo loves Sam. It’s just… ahhh. ❤

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